Forbidden Peak (Alexandria)

The peak has been likened to a "great obelisk of rock", a classic horn created by the merging of several glacial cirques. Three remarkable ridges radiate from the summit (N, W, and E), Alpine Grade II-III and 5.2-5.8 (depending upon route and which guide you survey). The West Ridge receives the most attention due to its inclusion in the 50 Classic Climbs in North America. The attention is well-deserved, but don't expect to spend a lonely day on the route. The North Ridge is much more alpine and committing while the East Ridge Routes are much more technical (5.7-5.8 on the Direct Ridge)or loose and unsavory (NE Ledge AKA East Ridge had a fatal fall on traverse in 1975). The warm south face is gnerally downslabbed and holds a number of serious alpine rock climbs 8-10 pitches Grade III-IV / up to 5.10-A3. Selected Climbs in the Cascades writes "There is no easy way off Forbidden Peak." True. True. Reference material from Beckey Guide Vol 2 and Selected Climbs in the Cascades by Potterfield and Nelson.